유럽 골드워크 자수의 시대별 변천과 사회·문화적 가치   유럽 골드워크 자수의 시대별 변천과 사회·문화적 가치
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저자 김이랑, 권미정     
수록지 服飾文化硏究   제28권 제4호 통권147호  pp.p. 544-561
발행사항 服食文化學會
발행년 2020
UCI G901:A-0010157252    공유
DOI http://dx.doi.org/10.29049/rjcc.2020.28.4.544
언어 kor
주제어 골드워크 자수, 자수, 유럽, 변천, 사회, 문화적 가치, 자수, Social-cultural value, Embroidery, 유럽, Europe, Transition, 골드워크자수, 변천, Goldwork embroidery, 사회·문화적가치
초록 Goldwork embroidery is the art of embroidery using metal threads. As well as being used as a decorative element of religious clothing, flags, performing costumes, uniforms, and badges, goldwork embroidery is also used in many current designer collections. Therefore, this study aimed to examine the techniques and materials of goldwork embroidery and the formative characteristics and socio-cultural values of goldwork embroidery from its beginning to the early 20th century. For this study, various embroidery works, costumes, museum portraits, and literature were analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the transition of goldwork embroidery was divided into 4 categories: The beginning of goldwork embroidery; the golden age of goldwork embroidery; the maturity of goldwork embroidery; and various goldwork embroidery (depending on the materials used, usage, and design features). The earliest extant example is the "Maaseik fragments" in Belgium dating from the late 8th to early 9th centuries. Until the 15th century, the Church was the most important patron of goldwork embroidery; however, after the 15th century, goldwork embroidery was produced on costumes. Second, the social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery (based on transition and formative features) were classified as expression of divinity, instrument of governance, desire to be approved, and tools of self-expression. Through this study, it is evident that there have been many advances in both technique and technology over time. Furthermore, patterns of usage and social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery have changed significantly.
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